Study finds over half of skin-lightening creams contain unsafe mercury levels

A study has found that nearly half of skin-lightening creams contain unsafe levels of mercury.

Conducted by the Zero Mercury Working Group (ZMWG), the study titled “Zero out toxic production: End the unscrupulous manufacturing of mercury-added skin whiteners” revealed mercury concentrations thousands of times above the legal limit.

Mercury is a potent neurotoxin. Even low-level exposure can damage the kidneys, nervous system, skin, immune system, and respiratory system. Despite international agreements such as the Minamata Convention, which sets the mercury limit in cosmetics at 1 part per million (ppm), many products remain dangerously contaminated.

Driven by colourism and the promise of quick results, these mercury-laden creams, marketed as “lightening” or “brightening” products, pose serious risks. Mercury blocks melanin production, making skin appear lighter.

However, prolonged use can cause uneven pigmentation, dark spots, or permanent damage, according to the World Health Organisation (WHO). Mercury also enters the bloodstream, harming internal organs and posing risks to unborn children.

ZMWG purchased and analysed 37 suspected mercury-added creams from Pakistan, the Philippines, Kenya, and the United States. Only two samples contained mercury below the legal threshold; the remaining 35 had dangerously high levels. One cream sold in the US contained 24,000 ppm.

Most samples ranged between 1,000 and 24,000 ppm. Packaging indicated that many were manufactured in Pakistan, which accounts for about 20 per cent of the global supply. The report estimates 66 million mercury-added creams are produced annually, containing more than 110 metric tons of mercury compounds.

The study highlighted the widespread availability of these products in local markets and online platforms. Weak enforcement, legal loopholes, and poor international cooperation allow toxic creams to circulate despite bans.

The report urged governments to stop production at the source, map manufacturers, close loopholes, and enforce bans on manufacture, import, export, and sale.

In 2022, ZMWG published “Skin lighteners still available online despite mercury findings”, a study that analysed 271 products from online retailers in 17 countries, including Kenya. Laboratory testing showed 129 products, 48 per cent, exceeded the 1 ppm limit, with some reaching tens of thousands of ppm.

Many high-mercury creams originated from Pakistan (43 per cent), Thailand (8 per cent), and China (6 per cent). Mislabelling mercury on products leaves consumers unaware of the danger. The report stressed that online marketplaces fail to verify product safety, making toxic creams easily accessible worldwide.

The findings are significant for Kenya, where mercury-laden creams remain available. Social media platforms like TikTok openly promote these products, often without awareness of their risks.

Manufacturers rarely disclose mercury content, and weak enforcement heightens consumer vulnerability.

Skin-lightening creams often contain other harmful substances.

Hydroquinone, another common ingredient, interferes with melanin production but can cause permanent skin thinning, dark spots, and sensitivity to sunlight. Steroids such as clobetasol or betamethasone reduce inflammation but can lead to skin thinning, stretch marks, acne, and systemic problems like high blood pressure or diabetes.

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Cheaply manufactured creams may also contain lead, arsenic, or other heavy metals, which accumulate in the body and cause organ damage, neurological issues, or even cancer. The danger lies in repeated long-term use, lack of labelling, and high potency.

Kenya has taken steps to regulate toxic cosmetics.

In November 2022, the Kenya Bureau of Standards (KEBS) banned 131 products, including creams, lotions, gels, and soaps, due to contamination with mercury and other chemicals. These substances are considered unsafe for over-the-counter use and are legally permitted only in regulated medical treatments.

KEBS has also issued public warnings highlighting health risks such as skin disease, kidney damage, nervous system disorders, and cancer.

Despite these measures, challenges persist. Online sales and imported products continue to make hazardous creams accessible, undermining enforcement efforts.